On a rainy day in Prague, I set out to find matzah for Passover.
Now, I thought it would be a snap, since I found it in December at an Arabic grocer a block or two from my place. Of course they'd have it now. But it wasn't on the shelf where I found it only 4 months ago. I speak in broken Czech to the store owner. Here's one of the times the mispronunciation roles were reversed.
"Mate matzah?" (Do you have matzah?)
"Maso?" (Meat?)
"Ne maso, matzah." (Not meat, matzah.)
"Maso?"
"Ne. Ma-tz-tz-tz-ah."
"Co je matzah?" (What is matzah?)
"It's a cracker. For Passover. It's like bread."
"Never heard of it."
"You had it a couple months ago."
"Well, we don't have it."
And he was right. Not anywhere to be found.
Frustrated, and a little wet, I walk home.
I boot up my computer and search the internet for such sensible things as "kosher food prague," "kosher praha," "matzah prague." Eventually I come across an article written by a fellow Jewish expat describing the woes of finding matzah in this city. However, it says "This year, the rumor is, everything has changed." Which I interpreted as meaning matzah is available.
Very few specifics are found in the article, so I email of the author and ask her for some more information. She gives me the address of some places in the Jewish quarter where I can find matzah, maybe even gefilte fish and - gasp - macaroons! I'm a happy man.
So I write down all necessary information and hit the streets, off to the Jewish quarter. Though my jacket has a hood, I am umbrella-less, and am only so protected by the hood. Especially from cars which like to drive too close to the curb. And given Prague's fantastic street drainage ability, I didn't stay that dry for that long.
I make it to the address I have written down - it's a synagogue in Josefov. All doors are locked. There's a sign that reads "entry is restricted" right next to the list of all the services they conduct. Hmm.
Standing in the rain coming from both the sky and the tires of passing cars, I call to confirm matzah is available. The lady on the other end does not speak English. And given my difficulties with the face-to-face conversation asking for matzah, I didn't bother to do that over the phone. I'm put on hold while the lady searches for someone who speaks English.
Meanwhile, I see a door that people are entering and exiting from. So I go to that door, and a security guard taps me on the shoulder and prevents me from entering. Ok.... For all the times in my life people from afar have correctly guessed my religion, I find it odd that I am not allowed in to the temple.
Still standing in the rain, I am finally put through to someone who speaks English. I ask about the matzah, and the very friendly voice assures me they have it, repeats the address, and tells me to show up before 6. Great. I say, well, I'm outside right now, can I be let in? She says, "Sure!"
So I hear the door buzz and I walk in. Facing two security guards in flak jackets who are looking me up and down, one of whom prevented my entrance before, I repeat my request for matzah.
"Do you have a passport?" One snarls at me.
"Uh, no. Why would I have that with me?"
"Then we have a problem."
"We do?! Why?"
"You're not allowed in."
"All I want is some matzah."
Then the phone rings. The guard at the desk picks it up, garbles something incoherent in Czech, looks at me, grunts once or twice, and then hangs up. Then says, "Ok, you can go through."
Get the matzah. Super.
That only took two hours.
But it was all worth it when I saw my students' faces the following morning as I made them "bitter herb" sandwiches (read: horseradish on matzah) as we talked all about Moses parting the Red Sea and an in-depth discussion into what a locust is.
Chag Sameach!